Rad Power Error Codes: The Complete Reference Now That Official Support Is Gone

Digital multimeter used to check an e-bike connector after reading an error code

Rad Power Bikes has stopped operating, but the bikes are still on the road and the displays still throw codes. The code table itself has not changed, and neither has what each number is telling you to check. What has gone away is the support line. So here is the reference, grouped the way it is actually useful when you are standing over the bike.

The six codes almost every brand shares

Six of Rad's codes belong to a family that turns up across a large part of the industry, because many brands build on controllers from the same upstream platform. 21 is abnormal current, 22 is a throttle fault, 23 is a motor phase fault, 24 is a motor hall fault, 25 is a brake sensor fault or a brake being held at start up, and 30 is a communication error between display and controller. We have written about that shared code family in detail, and everything in it applies here unchanged.

If you own an older bike, that may be the whole list. A RadRover 5, for example, reports only those six.

The codes you will only meet on Rad displays

6 — Battery undervoltage. Pack voltage has dropped below what the controller will run on.

10 — Battery overvoltage. The opposite reading, and worth taking seriously rather than clearing and riding on.

12 — Motor stall warning. The motor is being asked to turn and is not turning.

15 — Torque sensor error. Only relevant on bikes fitted with a torque sensor rather than a cadence sensor.

16 — Controller error. The controller is reporting a fault in itself.

17 — Throttle on start up. The throttle was held, or is reading as held, when the bike was switched on. This is the same protective logic as code 25 on the brake side.

Buttons, temperature, and the connected features

Four more codes cover the physical controls and thermal protection: 31 for a power button stuck down, 34 for a jammed button, 35 for the controller temperature sensor and 36 for the motor temperature sensor. Two others relate to connected features rather than the drive system: 40 is a radar fault and 50 reports that Find My data has been lost. Bikes with a colour display carry an additional code set of their own, documented separately from the list above.

Code 6 is the one worth reading twice

Rad's own guidance splits code 6 by how often it appears, and that split is the useful part. An intermittent undervoltage code usually points at how the bike is being ridden — heavy assist, steep ground, a pack that is low or cold. A persistent one points at hardware, and the place to look is the battery compartment: the contacts and mount where the pack meets the bike, checked for corrosion and for burn or arcing marks. That inspection costs nothing and rules in or out the most common physical cause before you start buying parts.

Getting from a code to a part

A code names a circuit, not a verdict. Codes 23 and 24 point at the motor cable and its connector at least as often as at the motor itself, so unplug, inspect and reseat before condemning anything expensive. Code 30 is a display-to-controller conversation that has stopped, which can be the cable, either end, or a protocol mismatch after someone has already swapped a part. A meter is worth more than a guess at this stage: measuring at the connector tells you whether power and signal are arriving, and that single measurement often decides which part gets replaced.

When a code does end in a replacement, sourcing is its own problem now. We keep a guide to where Rad replacement parts can still be found, and a separate one on which Rad models can take an aftermarket controller kit, which matters because not every model can.

One thing we cannot confirm

Rad's assets were taken over by Life Electric Vehicles. Whether that restores a supply of original replacement parts, and for which models, is not something we can confirm at this point. Treat any claim that factory parts are flowing again as unverified until you have checked it directly.

A code is where the work starts

Write the number down, note whether it is constant or comes and goes, and check the free things first: connectors seated, pack charged, brake levers released, nothing held at power-on. Most of these codes are pointing at a connection rather than a component, and the ones that are not will still be there after you have looked.