Controller + 750S Display Kit — R1 / Pegasus Direct Replacement

This is the controller-and-display pair these bikes left the factory with. Matched, powered up as a set, and ready to drop straight back in. If the screen went dark or the controller stopped driving the motor, this returns the bike to stock — no protocol guessing, no ordering twice.

Built for the 26″×4.0 builds that shipped with the 750S center-mount display — R1 and Pegasus. The two run the 5S protocol on a Julet 5-pin connector; we set wheel size and units before it leaves here.

In the box

• 48V 750W sine-wave controller — 12-MOSFET, 22A limit, potted body, XT90 battery lead
• 750S grayscale display — 5-pin Julet connector, Ø31.8 mm clamp, center-mount with a separate 3-button pad
• Pre-paired and powered up as a set before packing

For 20″ builds with a side-mount display (Eagle / Storm / Infinity), see the 510S version.

Specifications

Who this kit is for

This is a factory-matched replacement set, not a universal conversion kit. It has one job: putting a bike that already ran this exact controller-and-display pair back on the road.

✔ Near-certain fit

Your bike shipped from the factory with this controller and this display, the motor is still good, and one or both of these two parts died. That is a like-for-like swap and it is what this kit is priced for.

⚠ A bike this pair did not come from

Short answer: usually no — and we will tell you so before you spend the money. This controller is potted and its parameters are locked at the factory. There are no P-settings, and there is no way to re-teach it another motor's pole count or hall geometry. We have watched this exact controller refuse to drive hub motors from other models of the same brand, on the bench, with the wiring correct. If you still want to try, email us four photos first. We would rather lose the sale than take the return.

✘ Do not buy this for

• Closed CAN-bus systems — Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Yamaha, Specialized, Trek, VanMoof. Locked at the protocol level; nothing aftermarket talks to them.
• Torque-sensor bikes where you want to keep the torque feel. This controller reads pedal cadence.
• 36V or 52V packs. 48V only.
• "I'll make it work" builds. It may not work, and you should know that before your money moves, not after.

The most reliable repair is to change the whole chain

Controller, display and motor as one matched set. When all three come out of the same system the parameters already agree — nothing to teach, nothing to guess, no six-combination hall hunt. If your motor is also suspect, or if you are fitting a bike this pair did not come from, ask us about the complete three-piece set instead of buying the pair.

Send us four photos before you order

We would rather talk you out of the wrong part than take the return. Email support@riderow.com with:

1. The battery label (we need the voltage).
2. The old controller, all its wires in frame.
3. The display, front on, on the handlebar.
4. Where the motor cable exits the wheel, connector included.

Usually same-day answer: yes, no, or "you need the motor too."

What installation involves

On the bike this pair came from, it is a plug-and-ride swap. On anything else, plan an evening — and read the paragraph above again first.

• Motor wiring. Match colors first — three phase wires, five hall wires. Wheel spins backwards, swap any two phase wires. Runs rough, hold the phase wires and work through the six hall combinations. The right one runs smooth and pulls the lowest no-load current.
• Connectors. Julet-style waterproof. A different connector family means splicing or an adapter lead.
• Stop immediately if the motor heats up or no-load current is high. Wrong hall combination — not a bad motor.

What is not included

Battery, motor, throttle, brake levers and PAS sensor are not part of this kit.

How we work: RideRow sells parts and the information to install them. We do not run a repair shop, take bikes in, or do house calls. Installation is done by you or a technician you choose.